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Trail running

La Palma’s landscapes surprised me

Interview with Luis Alberto Hernando, the three-time world champion of trail running, who explains why the volcanic landscape of La Palma exceeded all his expectations.

Trail running

Athlete Interviews: La Palma & Trail Running

Exclusive interview with Emelie Forsberg, the trail running legend, who returns to La Palma. Discover why this volcanic island makes her feel more alive than ever.

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Hiking
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La Laguna Grande II

This circular route, slightly longer than La Laguna Grande I, offers a varied walk through one of the most representative sectors of Garajonay National Park. Part of the trail was affected by the forest fire of August 2012, and its effects can still be observed in some sections, providing valuable insight into the forest’s natural regeneration process. The path begins along an old mule track, paved in the steepest sections, ascending through a lush tree fayal–brezal, a plant formation typical of the southern slope of the Park, where the influence of mist is lower and vegetation has adapted to drier and sunnier conditions. This initial stretch preserves the essence of the traditional forest, with large fayas and heaths forming a dense and pleasantly shaded canopy. Shortly afterwards, walkers encounter large fallen eucalyptus trunks, evidence of the ecological restoration process carried out by the Park to remove introduced species and recover native vegetation. These remains serve as a visible reminder of the historical transformation of the landscape and the ongoing effort to restore the native ecosystem. Upon reaching the southern boundary of the Park, the trail opens out onto a vineyard landscape, offering a striking contrast between the protected monteverde forest and the traditional agricultural mosaic characteristic of La Gomera’s mid-altitudes. From this point, the route continues along a branch of a track that re-enters the forest, crossing a reforested pine woodland and, further on, a small grove of chestnut trees—another introduced species that has become part of the area’s cultural landscape. In the final sections, several fern-covered embankments stand out, forming true green walls that are especially impressive during humid periods. From certain points along the trail, magnificent views can be enjoyed of Fortaleza de Cherelepi, a vegetation-covered volcanic dome that dominates the horizon and becomes one of the most striking landscape features of the route. La Laguna Grande II is a perfect walk for those seeking a gentle yet complete hike, combining botanical diversity, forest history, and privileged panoramic views in the heart of Garajonay National Park.

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Hiking
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Contadero - Alto Garajonay - Contadero

This itinerary leads visitors to Alto de Garajonay, the highest point on La Gomera at 1,487 metres above sea level, and one of the most extraordinary panoramic viewpoints in the Canary Islands. Despite its relatively short length, the route offers an intense and well-rounded experience, both natural and cultural. The trail ascends gradually from the Contadero area, crossing slopes covered by young fayal–brezal, the result of ecological restoration work that replaced the former pine plantations which dominated this area until a few decades ago. This regenerating forest allows visitors to observe the natural evolution of the woodland following the forest fire of 2012, whose effects remain subtly visible in the landscape. As altitude is gained, magnificent views open up over the summit’s forested landscapes, with rolling expanses of monteverde, summit heath, and shrubland stretching in all directions. On clear days, much of the Canary archipelago can be seen, including Tenerife, La Palma, and El Hierro. The sense of height and openness makes this section one of the most spectacular moments of the route. The ascent culminates on the wide summit plateau of Alto de Garajonay, a site of great historical and spiritual significance. Here lies an archaeological site, excavated and prepared for visitors, which shows that this enclave was one of the main ceremonial and religious centres of the ancient inhabitants of La Gomera. The surroundings, dominated by rock formations, natural platforms, and 360-degree views, invite reflection on the profound connection that pre-Hispanic communities maintained with this sacred place. The descent back to Contadero follows the same trail, offering once again the panoramic views and the young forest covering the slopes of the central summit. Route 7 of Garajonay National Park is an essential experience for those wishing to reach the summit of La Gomera, combining history, landscape, and biodiversity in a short yet unforgettable walk.

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Hiking
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Cañada de Jorge

This trail offers a peaceful and highly representative walk through the forests of the southern sector of Garajonay National Park, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in a beautiful fayal–brezal, the typical plant formation of this slope, which is less influenced by the trade wind mists. Along most of the route, the path runs among medium-sized fayas and heaths, with moss in the shadier areas and an open undergrowth that reveals clearings and sunlit slopes. As the trail approaches higher elevations near the ridge road, the landscape gradually changes. In these summit areas, as well as in the deeper ravines, the forest reaches greater development due to the presence of additional moisture, allowing more demanding species such as laurels, holly (acebiño), and viñátigo to appear. These environmental contrasts, visible over short distances, demonstrate the diversity of the monteverde and the strong influence of relief and mist on vegetation distribution. The descent toward the bottom of the ravine reveals one of the most interesting ethnographic features of the route: a narrow, stone-built historic channel that once carried a small flow of water from the springs to nearby rural settlements. This traditional water channel, still recognizable along the trail, recalls the historical importance of the forest as a water source for local communities and the need to make use of every available water resource on this drier slope of the island. Overall, the Cañada de Jorge route is a gentle and highly recommended walk for those wishing to discover the ecological nuances of the southern sector of the Park, combining nature, water heritage, and a pleasant sense of tranquility.

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Hiking
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La Laguna Grande I

This circular, comfortable, and easily accessible trail is one of the most frequented in Garajonay National Park due to its privileged location in La Laguna Grande, the Park’s main recreational area. It is an ideal route for all types of visitors, including families, people with limited time, or those seeking a first introduction to La Gomera’s laurel forest (monteverde). The path runs through an area of fayal–brezal, a type of forest characteristic of the southern slope of the Park, where the climate is drier and sunnier. The trail also features small patches of summit heathland, whose soil is covered by a continuous carpet of moss, creating a cool and peaceful atmosphere. Parts of the route still bear traces of the forest fire of August 2012, whose effects remain visible in some sections, providing educational insight into the natural regeneration of the forest. In late April and early May, the trail becomes especially colorful as floral carpets emerge along its edges, offering a particularly attractive landscape for photography and botanical observation. During the walk, a viewpoint provides magnificent views of Fortaleza de Cherelepi, a vegetation-covered volcanic dome that stands out as a remarkable geological landmark in the island’s central landscape. The trail also features interpretive panels explaining the natural, geological, and cultural values of the area, making it a perfect route to discover the main elements of Garajonay National Park in an accessible and informative way.

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Hiking
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Barranquillos

This short and pleasant route leads visitors into one of the most representative plant formations of the southern sector of Garajonay National Park: the fayal–brezal, a type of forest characteristic of areas less influenced by mist and therefore drier and sunnier. Along the trail, walkers can clearly observe how this ecosystem adapts to a milder and more open climate than that of the northern slope. One of the most interesting aspects of the route is that it crosses areas with different levels of conservation, making it easy to interpret the impact that traditional human activities—such as grazing, charcoal production, or the collection of leaf litter for agricultural use—have had on the forest. These historical traces, still visible in the landscape, help to better understand the close relationship between local communities and the forest over generations. The trail finally reaches the edge of the island’s central plateau, a natural balcony offering beautiful panoramic views of La Gomera’s west coast. This viewpoint is particularly recommended at sunset, when the warm light enhances the volcanic relief and bathes the slopes in a calm, photogenic atmosphere. Due to its short length, accessibility, and interpretive value, Route 4 of Garajonay National Park is an excellent option for those wishing to enjoy a brief yet enriching walk within the Park—ideal as a complement to nearby trails or for a short visit to the area.

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Hiking
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Playa Santiago-Benchijigua

Located in San Sebastián de La Gomera, this route gives a good sample of the island’s landscapes. The hike goes through the verdant hills in Agando, palm groves in the bed of the ravine and at the end, native plants like Canary Island Spurge and Hercules Club near a hamlet of rural architecture with houses scattered among the allotments of crops. Also to be seen are areas of cereal growing land in the hermitage of Saint John the Baptist, an old hydraulic mill in Pastrana and modern infrastructure to collect water like the well and reservoir in Benchijigua.

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Hiking
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Vallehermoso Circular Walk

Located in the municipality of Vallehermoso, in the western part of the island of La Gomera, this route takes you through one of the most emblematic juniper groves in the Canary Islands. However, the star of this walk is the landscape because as you walk round to the other face of the mountain, a great variety of plant species can be seen in a relatively small area. Also of interest is the fauna made up of birds like crows and common buzzards which usually accompany walkers on their way through the Gomeran hills.

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Hiking
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GR 132.1 Ramal Las Rosas – Chorros de Epina

The GR 132.1 is an inland variant that connects the area of Las Rosas with the Chorros de Epina, offering a transitional route between the agricultural landscapes of the north and the forest formations associated with the laurel forest (monteverde). Covering just over twelve kilometres, the itinerary passes through one of the most representative municipalities in northern La Gomera: Vallehermoso. The route begins near the Las Rosas reservoir, from where a gradual ascent starts, soon leaving the track to follow dirt paths. In the initial sections, fayal–brezal woodland predominates, alternating with patches of laurel forest in the more humid areas. As the route progresses, the landscape opens up, revealing for the first time the unmistakable silhouette of Roque Cano, a monumental volcanic plug that visually dominates the entire valley. The descent towards Vallehermoso offers wide views of the town centre and its terraced slopes. Canary juniper gradually becomes more prominent as altitude decreases, shaping a drier and brighter landscape on the exposed hillsides. After crossing the town — where the trail connects with other hiking routes — the path resumes its climb along the opposite slope. The ascent is steady and provides views over the surrounding ravines, where small traditional orchards survive in contrast to abandoned terraces. The light-coloured, eroded terrain reveals the ancient volcanic materials that outcrop in this northern part of the island. As elevation increases, juniper woodland alternates once again with areas of monteverde favoured by the growing influence of the trade winds. The trail follows ridge lines that allow panoramic views on both sides of the terrain, until the forest becomes denser, forming a more enclosed fayal–brezal where tree heather and firetree create a cool, shaded atmosphere. In its final stretch, the route links with forest tracks and local roads before heading definitively towards the Chorros de Epina, a traditional site associated with springs and local legends. Surrounded by vegetation and holding strong symbolic value for the local population, this place marks the natural end of the branch and its connection with the main GR 132 route. Overall, the GR 132.1 is an inland alternative that reveals the landscape diversity of northern La Gomera: from agricultural valleys dominated by imposing roques to juniper-covered ridges and humid forests that herald the presence of the monteverde. A varied and demanding route that complements the coastal experience of the main circular trail.