El Hierro is volcanic nature at its purest, spectacular sea beds, long walks and the sound of the waves. But from time to time, the island interrupts its tranquillity to dress up in its finest and celebrate its unique traditions and culture.
Inspiring, peaceful, magical… In addition to all the adjectives that describe El Hierro, we should mention the word fun. Because at specific times, this Biosphere Reserve adds white and red, the colours of its traditional festival attire, to the infinite scale of greens that defines it. The perfect opportunity for immersing oneself in the local culture and discovering the very particular idiosyncrasy of the island with soul.
The most traditional fiestas of El Hierro
As on its sister islands, great passion is thrown into the celebration of Carnival, when the typical Carneros de Tigaday take to the streets. But this is not the only festivity that takes place on the island. El Hierro’s three municipalities have more than a dozen traditional celebrations on their calendar, most of which are a legacy of their rich past.
La Bajada de la Virgen de los Reyes
El Hierro has been living under a vow since 1741. That year, after suffering a long drought, the local population decided to make a plea to the Virgen de los Reyes in the form of a procession from her chapel in La Dehesa, in the west of the island, to the capital Valverde, crossing the island’s central mountains. The story goes that the act was rewarded with heavy rain that ended the drought, resulting in the Virgin being made the patron saint.
From that day on, the people of El Hierro promised in writing to repeat the journey on the first Saturday of July every four years, “whether or not there is an urgent need” (excerpt from the 1741 Vow). This magical event is now the most important festival on the island, lasting a month and attracting thousands of visitors. It begins with La Bajada de la Virgen, in which the people of the different villages, dressed in traditional costumes, take turns walking to the rhythm of whistles, drums and chácaras (similar to castanets). This is also the moment of the famous laying of tablecloths, a popular lunch that takes place at the Cruz de los Reyes.
After her arrival in Valverde, at nightfall, the festivities begin, taking the Virgin through the different towns of the island, with music and celebrations breaking out as she arrives. The event comes to an end after 30 days when the procession makes the return journey in what is known as La Subida de la Virgen.
San Isidro Labrador, in Villa de Valverde
The island’s capital also takes to the streets to celebrate in honour of the municipality’s patron saint, revered by farmers. The festivities take place in the streets of the old town and last from four to five days, over which people enjoy music, gastronomy and religious, cultural and sporting events such as traditional Canarian wrestling and cart runs. It always culminates on 15 May, the big day, with a pilgrimage and a lively street party.
San Juan Bautista, in La Restinga and Las Puntas
Although the Canary Islands never lack sunshine, the arrival of summer is always synonymous with joy. In El Hierro this time of year marks the celebration of San Juan Bautista, a festival that is feted with particular intensity in the north and south of the island. In both Las Puntas and La Restinga, the locals take to the streets intent on having a good time. The festivities are organised around 23 June and over the three or four days of the fiestas there is non-stop music, dancing, sport and naturally, local cuisine, which is very much in evidence in the form of stalls, small shops and popular meals in which locals and visitors sit around the same table.
Fiesta de Los Pastores, in La Dehesa
At the end of April, the westernmost tip of the island is the setting for one of the oldest traditional festivals. The Fiesta de Los Pastores has been celebrated on the island since at least 1567, when the shepherds of El Hierro offered their livestock to the Virgin Mary to mark a good start to the grazing season and a prosperous year. Today, this tradition lives on in the form of a musical procession around Montaña El Caracol, in the heart of the Cultural Landscape of Virgen de los Reyes. The fiesta is followed by a livestock auction and a fellowship meal where one can enjoy traditional shepherds’ recipes.
More expressions of a living heritage
Most of El Hierro‘s festivities take place between April and October. Over these eight months, the municipality of El Pinar hosts the Fiestas de La Paz and the Día de la Cruz, a beautiful celebration in which locals compete to present the most lavishly decorated crucifix, as well as other festivities dedicated to the Virgin. Valverde is also the venue for La Apañada, the perfect event for sampling typical local dishes and products. La Frontera, for its part, is not to be outdone. The festival of San Simón in Sabinosa, at the end of October, is an authentic display of El Hierro folklore, while the patron saint festivals of San Lorenzo and Candelaria immerse the entire El Golfo valley in a celebration that lasts for the whole of August.
