What is the history of this mythical tree? What was its secret? Why was it so revered by the Bimbache people, the first inhabitants of El Hierro? Centuries ago, surviving on this singular island was a huge challenge due to the absence of springs, rivers and wells. But fortunately, there was a Sacred Tree that represented an authentic source of life for an entire people.
The history of these pioneers could have ended very abruptly had it not been for the Garoé, a large til venerated for being the main - and possibly the only source of fresh water on the island for generations. Located at an altitude of 1000 m, this unique tree had to make rain below its leaves. In fact, its name comes from the Guanche languages and means river. The Bimbaches, the indigenous people of El Hierro, collected every drop that emanated from zurrones, hollows in the tree's trunk, and little ponds that were built around it. A vital resource that not only helped them to quench their thirst, but also allowed them to feed livestock and develop crops like barley.
This tree was also the saviour of the Spanish when they arrived in El Hierro. Without drinking water, the crews of the ships began to suffer from dehydration. A young native woman took the fruit of this rain tree to them to save an Andalusian soldier she had fallen in love with. A few centuries later, in 1610, a strong hurricane devastated the area, felling the tree. But more than 400 years after it disappeared, the Garoé continues to be more present than ever on El Hierro. As well as being replanted in 1949 and being the central symbol of the island’s flag, we can now also find an interpretation centre with all types of information on this very special tree.
The true secret of the Garoé comes from the sky
When the Bimbaches, the indigenous people of El Hierro, deemed a tree to be sacred, they had good reason. Thanks to its elevated position and capacity to condense the humidity of the low clouds to turn them into water, the Garoé had the power of making life spring up around it. This natural phenomenon is known as horizontal rain and, along with the special cementation of the volcanic soil, constitutes one of the main sources of the magic woods dotted over the more westerly islands like El Hierro or La Gomera.
On the trail of the Bimbaches
Strolling around these small oases created by the clouds and enjoying their infinite tones of green can be a very special experience indeed. There are routes and signposted trails available for all kinds of walkers. And they are a great way of exploring the contrasts of these lands at any time of year. One good example of this is the Ruta del Agua, a circular route of about 16 kilometres around the Garoé tree which enables us to discover the laurissilva and Fayal-Brezal (Morella-Erica heath) forests at our own pace, along with ancient ruins and pools, spectacular viewpoints like that of La Caldera and other secrets, such as the Wind-Pumped Hydro Power Station of Gorona del Viento, an innovative installation which supplies the entire island of El Hierro with energy that is 100% sustainable, known as the 21st-century Garoé.
Another great way to find out more about this people is by heading to the El Julan Cultural Park, at the other end of the island. In this area, the Bimbaches left one of the largest samples of petroglyphs - which are yet to be deciphered - along with a site containing primitive tools and mummified bodies.