Blog Islas Canarias OFFICIAL CANARY ISLANDS
TOURISM BLOG
www.hellocanaryislands.com
Blog Islas Canarias OFFICIAL CANARY ISLANDS
TOURISM BLOG
www.hellocanaryislands.com

Walking to the Beautiful Valley on La Gomera


Highlights
How to Enjoy Carnival on Tenerife
Deserted beach and abandoned salt pans in Lanzarote
La Palma: A Heaven for Stargazing
Experience participating in Transgrancanaria
A Road Trip Around the North of Fuerteventura
A Journey to the end of the World, or to Punta de Orchilla
Diversity on the rocks: Hundreds of unique species
La Gomera, the romantic getaway
Following a Tapas Route on Tenerife
Enjoy a trek to the highest point in Lanzarote
Fiesta de la Cruz on La Palma
Gran Canaria’s Other Rock: Sacred Roque Bentayga
A day in the outback of Fuerteventura
Walking to the Beautiful Valley on La Gomera
"Fototrek” an amazing annual photographic adventure in El Hierro
An incredible Whale & Dolphin watching experience in Tenerife
The secret white sand beaches of Lanzarote
On the sunny side: Los Llanos de Aridane
Exploring South Fuerteventura by Car
The Best Bit of Las Canteras Beach is Underwater
La Gomera, lush and beautiful
Paragliding above the valley of El Hierro. What an experience!
Three ways to enjoy Teide in Tenerife
Tasting Lanzarote: Cosecha 2015
La Palma, a taste of the tropics
Jardín Canario Viera y Clavijo, one of the highlights of Gran Canaria
From a Magic Spring to a Secret Lake, Five Curiosities on La Gomera
Jinama and Charco Azul
Amazing boat excursion to the Archipiélago Chinijo marine reserve
Lanzarote sunrises
La Palma: a Treasure Trove of landscapes in One Island
Viewpoint Mirador de la Peña, the smallest hotel of the world and the giant lizard
A Hike Around Gran Canaria's Volcanic Hotspot
Fuerteventura, Strong Wind
La Gomera: A day visiting dolphins and whales
Lanzarote fishing: Fresh fish for lunch
Exploring the Historic Centre of La Laguna
“Ruta de la Tapa” in Valverde
Driving the Las Mimbreras road
Discover the Beautiful North of Lanzarote by Car
Excursion to the Isla de Lobos
La Gomera – a rural tourism paradise
Festival of La Bajada de la Virgen de los Reyes
A morning in Santa Cruz de La Palma
The water route, Valverde and the Bonanza rock
Exploring the San Juan Volcano
Vegueta: Time Travel In Las Palmas de Gran Canaria’s Old Town
Why You Don’t Want to Miss Out on Trekking Masca in Tenerife
Experience Tinajo: Rural traditions and breathtaking natural beauty
A lovely stroll around Villa de Valverde
A Spring Tour Of Gran Canaria
Through the back roads of El Paso
Relaxation and wellbeing, enjoying Lanzarote´s natural treasures
A trip along the coast of El Golfo, El Hierro
Exploring the Highs and Lows of Puerto de Mogán
Why You Will Absolutely Love Exploring Amazing La Graciosa
The Wild North of La Palma
Tenerife, best locations and the British favourite hotspots
Enjoy the best of Lanzarote at Noches de Jameos
Relish the thrill and views of El Faro La Entallada, in Fuerteventura
Menceyes and our Lady of Candelaria, in Tenerife
The Wine Run Lanzarote: food, wine and scenery
Experience the beauty of the pink caves of Puertito de Los Molinos
A Saturday in the beautiful village of Haría, Lanzarote
A must do in Fuerteventura – Picnic in the dunes of Corralejo
Playa San Juan in Tenerife, a charming place
A walk along the El Golfo ridge, El Hierro
The five best places to eat in Puerto del Rosario, Fuerteventura
A cup of coffee at Casa José Saramago, Lanzarote
Why Forestal Park is One of the Best Experiences in Tenerife
San Sebastián, the high part of Santa Cruz de La Palma
Sunset On The Rocks At Puerto de Mogán in Gran Canaria
A walk from San Andrés to Hoya del Morcillo, El Hierro
Enjoyment for the active traveller – Climb the Volcanic Mount Roja
Teguise: immerse yourself in Lanzarote’s history
How to Enjoy a Stunning Walk in Tenerife from Playa San Juan to Los Gigantes
Tazacorte, in La Palma: more than just a sun trap
Art, Architecture and Frogs in Gran Canaria's Garden City
Carnival time on El Hierro
One of the best family days out in Fuerteventura
Journey to another planet at Timanfaya National Park, Lanzarote
From the sea to the sky, a circular drive in South Tenerife
A journey through La Palma’s plant world
Los Carneros de Tigaday, El Hierro
Relaxing Weekend staying in the picture perfect beaches of El Cotillo – Fuerteventura
Lanzarote’s southwest coastline: where ocean meets lava
How to Enjoy North Tenerife and Wine Tasting in One Amazing Trip
A trip around La Palma’s south coast
The Quiet South Gran Canaria Beach With Two Names
What to explore, How to get there and where to stay in San Sebastian the capital of La Gomera.
Relax by the sea in El Tamaduste
The best olive oil in Fuerteventura – Verde Aurora Bio Farm
Hiking in La Geria: a bird’s eye view of the volcanoes
How to Enjoy a Unique Excursion Around Stunning Santa Cruz
El Tablado, La Palma’s remotest settlement
Swimming And Snorkelling At El Puertillo in North Gran Canaria
Enjoy a morning at the local produce Market in San Sebastián de La Gomera
A tour around El Hierro’s “Mirador’s”
Betancuria, the ancient capital in the mountains of Fuerteventura
How to Enjoy an Easy Adventure from Puerto del Carmen to Puerto Calero
A walk across Llano de Las Cuevas in La Palma
How to Enjoy a Superb Luxury Sailing Trip in Tenerife
From Jungle To Desert at Maspalomas In South Gran Canaria
The sweetness of La Gomera and the Canary Islands – Palm Syrup
Related
articles
Deserted beach and abandoned salt pans in Lanzarote
La Palma: A Heaven for Stargazing
Experience participating in Transgrancanaria
A Journey to the end of the World, or to Punta de Orchilla
Diversity on the rocks: Hundreds of unique species
La Gomera, the romantic getaway
Enjoy a trek to the highest point in Lanzarote
Gran Canaria’s Other Rock: Sacred Roque Bentayga
A day in the outback of Fuerteventura
"Fototrek” an amazing annual photographic adventure in El Hierro
La Gomera, lush and beautiful
Paragliding above the valley of El Hierro. What an experience!
Three ways to enjoy Teide in Tenerife
Jardín Canario Viera y Clavijo, one of the highlights of Gran Canaria
From a Magic Spring to a Secret Lake, Five Curiosities on La Gomera
Jinama and Charco Azul
La Palma: a Treasure Trove of landscapes in One Island
A Hike Around Gran Canaria's Volcanic Hotspot
Fuerteventura, Strong Wind
Outdoor Living Lanzarote
The water route, Valverde and the Bonanza rock
Exploring the San Juan Volcano
Why You Don’t Want to Miss Out on Trekking Masca in Tenerife
Experience Tinajo: Rural traditions and breathtaking natural beauty
A Spring Tour Of Gran Canaria
A walk along the El Golfo ridge, El Hierro
Why Forestal Park is One of the Best Experiences in Tenerife
A walk from San Andrés to Hoya del Morcillo, El Hierro
Enjoyment for the active traveller – Climb the Volcanic Mount Roja
Journey to another planet at Timanfaya National Park, Lanzarote
A journey through La Palma’s plant world
Hiking in La Geria: a bird’s eye view of the volcanoes
A walk across Llano de Las Cuevas in La Palma
www.hellocanaryislands.com
Previous article
06 Jun 2016

It's common knowledge that if you want to spend your time hiking on a Canary Island, La Gomera is the island to head for. What's still not commonly known is all the Canary Islands offer exceptional and diverse walking. But there's no denying there is something extra special about exploring La Gomera on two feet.

My favourite La Gomera walking route is one that runs from the hills above the south west coast to Vallehermoso in the north.

Walking to Vallehermoso

We arrange for a taxi to drop us beside the mirador (viewpoint) at Igualero. Bruma (low cloud) cloaks the mirador, obscuring views of the surrounding area. It's early morning and the sun has just started burning off the mist. As we set off along the path the fog begins to clear, as if curtains were being drawn apart in time for a performance to begin.

Within minutes the misty cloud is a memory, ahead is a landscape of deep ravines and flat plateaus, the most impressive of which is the table top shaped La Fortaleza; a natural fortress considered a sacred site by the aborigines who inhabited the island prior to its conquest.

La Fortaleza de Chipude

Our path snakes easily across the hillside towards the base of La Fortaleza. On one side we skirt  pine trees, on the other the hills slope gently down to the blue Atlantic. Views across the rugged landscape are panoramic and dramatic.

As we reach the sacred mountain our route veers inland, passing agricultural hamlets and stone cottages whose terracotta roof tiles are held in place by rocks and, occasionally, pumpkins. The terrain softens in appearance as we cross shallow valleys with narrow terraces cut into their sides. In some, farmers bend double harvesting potatoes.

The path climbs and descends across an undulating agricultural terrain, taking us through the village of Chipude, where there's a couple of bars and a small supermarket, and then El Cercado; a centre for traditional pottery.

At El Cercado, La Gomera's landscape changes again as our path descends into a ravine whose slopes fall sharply away into a deep abyss. As the path curves around the hillside we're treated to views into the palm studded valley of the great king - Valle Gran Rey.

Descending from El Cercado

With perfect timing we reach an avenue of eucalyptus trees whose perfume fills our lungs with sweet air. The line of scented trees leads to a La Gomera institution and lunch.

Casa Efigenia is a rarity on the Canary Islands; a traditional restaurant which doesn't serve meat. At Efigenia's the food is as fresh as you get, straight from her allotments to the table.

Eating lunch at Casa Efigenia is more like sitting down to a family meal than eating in a restaurant. We're shown to a long table where a small group of Spanish hikers tuck enthusiastically into mountainous bowls of food. There's no menu, what's on offer never really changes. We start with  almogrote (strong cheese pate which is seriously addictive) and a pint of homemade lemonade. This is followed by a sweet and tangy tomato, carrot and papaya salad and a hearty puchero (stew) of potatoes, sweet potato, onion, tomato, spinach, carrots, pumpkin and chickpeas. As if that wasn't enough, a bowl of escaldón (a savoury, filling paste made from gofio flour flavoured by stock) accompanies the feast.  Even then it's not over, a dessert of leche asada completes lunch. Thankfully the lemon and cinnamon flavoured milk pudding is as light as air.

Vegetarian puchero Casa Efigenia

The generous banquet provides more than enough fuel for the onward journey, although the idea of a short siesta before taking to the trail is extremely tempting.

We step from Efigenia's door and into Garajonay National Park. Within yards we're enveloped in a forest of tree heath, myrtle and laurisilva. Twisted trees with moss-covered barks lean across the path ahead like an enchanted scene from a fairy tale. Every so often the forest opens up and we're treated to vistas over an emerald world carpeted by dense woodlands.

The path climbs to a ridge high above valleys where small settlements surrounded by palm groves line the fertile floor. We descend steeply to one of these hamlets, arriving at a road just before the Presa de la Encantadora. Although la Encantadora is a man-made reservoir, it looks more like a natural lake. A row of palm trees line one bank, ducks waddle along the shoreline and a heron stands still as a statue near the water's edge. It's idyllic.

Presa de La Encantadora Vallehermoso

From the lake we follow the road into Vallehermoso. It's lined by palm trees with metal bands around their trunks and with buckets on string dangling from the upper fronds. Both are signs the trees are being tapped for guarapo, palm sap used to produce miel de palma (palm honey) a sweet, smoky syrup which adds oomph to almost anything. Ahead of us, dominating the skyline above the town, is the imposing bust-like Roque Cano, Vallehermoso's eye-catching centrepiece.

Roque Cano Vallehermoso

Finally we reach the outskirts of the town where we follow a street lined by modest colonial townhouses to arrive at the plaza in the heart of Vallehermoso. There is a conveniently placed bar in the bustling square, we grab a seat in the sunshine and order a couple of ice cold cervezas with which to toast what has been an exceptional route.

All great walks should end with a reward.

 

 

 

 

 

Give us your comments

Comments

Highlights
How to Enjoy Carnival on Tenerife
Deserted beach and abandoned salt pans in Lanzarote
La Palma: A Heaven for Stargazing
Experience participating in Transgrancanaria
A Road Trip Around the North of Fuerteventura
A Journey to the end of the World, or to Punta de Orchilla
Diversity on the rocks: Hundreds of unique species
La Gomera, the romantic getaway
Following a Tapas Route on Tenerife
Enjoy a trek to the highest point in Lanzarote
Fiesta de la Cruz on La Palma
Gran Canaria’s Other Rock: Sacred Roque Bentayga
A day in the outback of Fuerteventura
Walking to the Beautiful Valley on La Gomera
"Fototrek” an amazing annual photographic adventure in El Hierro
An incredible Whale & Dolphin watching experience in Tenerife
The secret white sand beaches of Lanzarote
On the sunny side: Los Llanos de Aridane
Exploring South Fuerteventura by Car
The Best Bit of Las Canteras Beach is Underwater
La Gomera, lush and beautiful
Paragliding above the valley of El Hierro. What an experience!
Three ways to enjoy Teide in Tenerife
Tasting Lanzarote: Cosecha 2015
La Palma, a taste of the tropics
Jardín Canario Viera y Clavijo, one of the highlights of Gran Canaria
From a Magic Spring to a Secret Lake, Five Curiosities on La Gomera
Jinama and Charco Azul
Amazing boat excursion to the Archipiélago Chinijo marine reserve
Lanzarote sunrises
La Palma: a Treasure Trove of landscapes in One Island
Viewpoint Mirador de la Peña, the smallest hotel of the world and the giant lizard
A Hike Around Gran Canaria's Volcanic Hotspot
Fuerteventura, Strong Wind
La Gomera: A day visiting dolphins and whales
Lanzarote fishing: Fresh fish for lunch
Exploring the Historic Centre of La Laguna
“Ruta de la Tapa” in Valverde
Driving the Las Mimbreras road
Discover the Beautiful North of Lanzarote by Car
Excursion to the Isla de Lobos
La Gomera – a rural tourism paradise
Festival of La Bajada de la Virgen de los Reyes
A morning in Santa Cruz de La Palma
The water route, Valverde and the Bonanza rock
Exploring the San Juan Volcano
Vegueta: Time Travel In Las Palmas de Gran Canaria’s Old Town
Why You Don’t Want to Miss Out on Trekking Masca in Tenerife
Experience Tinajo: Rural traditions and breathtaking natural beauty
A lovely stroll around Villa de Valverde
A Spring Tour Of Gran Canaria
Through the back roads of El Paso
Relaxation and wellbeing, enjoying Lanzarote´s natural treasures
A trip along the coast of El Golfo, El Hierro
Exploring the Highs and Lows of Puerto de Mogán
Why You Will Absolutely Love Exploring Amazing La Graciosa
The Wild North of La Palma
Tenerife, best locations and the British favourite hotspots
Enjoy the best of Lanzarote at Noches de Jameos
Relish the thrill and views of El Faro La Entallada, in Fuerteventura
Menceyes and our Lady of Candelaria, in Tenerife
The Wine Run Lanzarote: food, wine and scenery
Experience the beauty of the pink caves of Puertito de Los Molinos
A Saturday in the beautiful village of Haría, Lanzarote
A must do in Fuerteventura – Picnic in the dunes of Corralejo
Playa San Juan in Tenerife, a charming place
A walk along the El Golfo ridge, El Hierro
The five best places to eat in Puerto del Rosario, Fuerteventura
A cup of coffee at Casa José Saramago, Lanzarote
Why Forestal Park is One of the Best Experiences in Tenerife
San Sebastián, the high part of Santa Cruz de La Palma
Sunset On The Rocks At Puerto de Mogán in Gran Canaria
A walk from San Andrés to Hoya del Morcillo, El Hierro
Enjoyment for the active traveller – Climb the Volcanic Mount Roja
Teguise: immerse yourself in Lanzarote’s history
How to Enjoy a Stunning Walk in Tenerife from Playa San Juan to Los Gigantes
Tazacorte, in La Palma: more than just a sun trap
Art, Architecture and Frogs in Gran Canaria's Garden City
Carnival time on El Hierro
One of the best family days out in Fuerteventura
Journey to another planet at Timanfaya National Park, Lanzarote
From the sea to the sky, a circular drive in South Tenerife
A journey through La Palma’s plant world
Los Carneros de Tigaday, El Hierro
Relaxing Weekend staying in the picture perfect beaches of El Cotillo – Fuerteventura
Lanzarote’s southwest coastline: where ocean meets lava
How to Enjoy North Tenerife and Wine Tasting in One Amazing Trip
A trip around La Palma’s south coast
The Quiet South Gran Canaria Beach With Two Names
What to explore, How to get there and where to stay in San Sebastian the capital of La Gomera.
Relax by the sea in El Tamaduste
The best olive oil in Fuerteventura – Verde Aurora Bio Farm
Hiking in La Geria: a bird’s eye view of the volcanoes
How to Enjoy a Unique Excursion Around Stunning Santa Cruz
El Tablado, La Palma’s remotest settlement
Swimming And Snorkelling At El Puertillo in North Gran Canaria
Enjoy a morning at the local produce Market in San Sebastián de La Gomera
A tour around El Hierro’s “Mirador’s”
Betancuria, the ancient capital in the mountains of Fuerteventura
How to Enjoy an Easy Adventure from Puerto del Carmen to Puerto Calero
A walk across Llano de Las Cuevas in La Palma
How to Enjoy a Superb Luxury Sailing Trip in Tenerife
From Jungle To Desert at Maspalomas In South Gran Canaria
The sweetness of La Gomera and the Canary Islands – Palm Syrup
Related
articles
Deserted beach and abandoned salt pans in Lanzarote
La Palma: A Heaven for Stargazing
Experience participating in Transgrancanaria
A Journey to the end of the World, or to Punta de Orchilla
Diversity on the rocks: Hundreds of unique species
La Gomera, the romantic getaway
Enjoy a trek to the highest point in Lanzarote
Gran Canaria’s Other Rock: Sacred Roque Bentayga
A day in the outback of Fuerteventura
"Fototrek” an amazing annual photographic adventure in El Hierro
La Gomera, lush and beautiful
Paragliding above the valley of El Hierro. What an experience!
Three ways to enjoy Teide in Tenerife
Jardín Canario Viera y Clavijo, one of the highlights of Gran Canaria
From a Magic Spring to a Secret Lake, Five Curiosities on La Gomera
Jinama and Charco Azul
La Palma: a Treasure Trove of landscapes in One Island
A Hike Around Gran Canaria's Volcanic Hotspot
Fuerteventura, Strong Wind
Outdoor Living Lanzarote
The water route, Valverde and the Bonanza rock
Exploring the San Juan Volcano
Why You Don’t Want to Miss Out on Trekking Masca in Tenerife
Experience Tinajo: Rural traditions and breathtaking natural beauty
A Spring Tour Of Gran Canaria
A walk along the El Golfo ridge, El Hierro
Why Forestal Park is One of the Best Experiences in Tenerife
A walk from San Andrés to Hoya del Morcillo, El Hierro
Enjoyment for the active traveller – Climb the Volcanic Mount Roja
Journey to another planet at Timanfaya National Park, Lanzarote
A journey through La Palma’s plant world
Hiking in La Geria: a bird’s eye view of the volcanoes
A walk across Llano de Las Cuevas in La Palma
www.hellocanaryislands.com